People warn you that Kyoto is a city of temples, and it is. What nobody told me is how easily you can step between centuries here. I spent one weekend in the lantern-lit lanes of Gion and the bright, busy streets across the river, and the best part was how little walking it took to get from one to the other.

Morning in the old city

I started at Cafe Yamamoto, a small, family-run coffee shop on a quiet residential street in Higashiyama. It opens at 7 a.m., which makes it one of the few places in Gion ready for you before the tour groups arrive. The breakfast sets are simple and very good: thick toast, filter coffee, a little salad. I'd go back just for the curry, which regulars rave about. From the front seats you can watch the neighborhood wake up.

A few minutes' walk puts you on the Shirakawa canal, which I think is the prettiest corner of Gion. Willows hang over the water, and the old teahouses along the stone-paved lane look much as they did a hundred years ago. Tatsumi Bridge is the classic photo spot, but get there early.

Yasaka Shrine, the heart of Gion

Yasaka Shrine sits at the eastern end of Shijo-dori, marked by its bright vermilion gate. It has been here for more than 1,300 years, and it is home to the Gion Matsuri, one of Japan's most famous festivals. The shrine is open 24 hours and free to enter, so I came twice: once in daylight, and again after dark, when hundreds of paper lanterns light up the central dance pavilion. The evening visit is not optional. It's the most magical thing I saw all weekend.

Right behind the shrine is Maruyama Park, Kyoto's best-known cherry blossom spot and a calm place to rest your feet. If you have the energy, the uphill walk south along Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka leads through preserved merchant streets to Kiyomizu-dera. To the north are Chion-in, with its enormous gate, and the quieter Shoren-in.

Ramen and matcha beer

Lunch was at Tenka Ippin's Chion-in branch, a cozy little room a short walk from the shrine. Tenka Ippin started in Kyoto in 1971 and is famous for its kotteri broth, so thick it's almost gravy. You can choose how firm you want your noodles, how thick the soup, and how much garlic. The surprise was the matcha beer: earthy, faintly bitter, and bright green. It somehow worked perfectly with a bowl that rich. Get the gyoza too.

Crossing the river: Minamiza and the modern city

Minamiza stands at the east end of Shijo Bridge, right where old Gion meets the Kamo River. It's Japan's oldest working kabuki theater, on the spot where kabuki was first performed in the early 1600s. The ornate building is striking even if you just stand outside it. If you do book a show, beginner-friendly performances and audio guides make it approachable.

Cross the bridge and you're suddenly in modern Kyoto. Shijo-Kawaramachi is all department stores, fashion shops, arcades, and crowds. Nishiki Market, the city's famous food street, is a few blocks west. Pontocho, a narrow alley of restaurants beside the river, is one street over. In warmer months, many of those restaurants set up dining platforms over the water. The riverbank itself is where Kyoto hangs out in the evening: couples, students, and street musicians sit along the water, evenly spaced.

Sushi by the river

Pontocho and Kiyamachi, the two narrow streets that run along the west bank of the Kamo River, are some of the best places in Kyoto to eat. I had a hard time choosing, so here are the spots worth knowing.

Pontocho Kappa Sushi is the one to pick if you want the river view. It has an outdoor terrace, and sunset over the water with a plate of fatty tuna and salmon is hard to beat. Prices are reasonable, and the fish is very fresh.

Sushitetsu, at the north end of Pontocho near Sanjo-dori, is the popular budget pick. Expect a line, sometimes 45 minutes, but the nigiri is excellent for the price and the pieces are generous. The seared salmon and eel are the standouts. If you're hungry after a long day of walking, it's worth the wait.

New Sushi Center Kiyamachi, one street over on Kiyamachi, is more of a lively izakaya. You can share a big sashimi platter with friends and order small plates like crab cream croquettes. It stays open until 1 a.m., which makes it perfect before or after karaoke.

If you want a splurge instead, Kakidakujira is a small omakase counter near Shijo-Kawaramachi. It seats only about eight people and gets great reviews for the chef and the fish, but you'll need a reservation.

Karaoke in the modern city

No trip to Japan is complete without karaoke, and Kawaramachi is full of it. We went to Karaoke Rainbow, a few minutes' walk from the river. You get your own private room, and soft drinks and soft-serve ice cream come with the price. It's surprisingly cheap, especially before 7 p.m. on weekdays. The song catalog has plenty of English hits (look for the foreign-language button on the screen), and it's open until 5 a.m., so there's no pressure to leave. Belting out songs in a tiny room, a few blocks from a 400-year-old kabuki theater, felt like the perfect summary of Kyoto's old-meets-new charm.

Nightcap at Shalara Craft Beer

I ended the night back on the Gion side at Shalara Craft Beer, a small spot in the Komatsu-cho area south of Shijo-dori. The beer was excellent, the tempura and tendon were a delicious bonus, and the staff were friendly and spoke great English. The same neighborhood holds Kennin-ji, Kyoto's oldest Zen temple, famous for its twin-dragon ceiling. There's also Yasui Konpira-gu, a shrine where people crawl through a stone covered in paper wishes to cut ties with bad luck. It's a great place for a quick stop before or after a drink.

The takeaway

Kyoto's magic is the contrast. In one weekend I had a thousand-year-old shrine, the birthplace of kabuki, riverside sushi, a green beer next to a bowl of ramen, and a karaoke room open until dawn. And all of it was within walking distance.

If you go

Cafe Yamamoto: 307-2 Ishibashi-cho, Chateau Domir building, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto 605-0066. 7 a.m.–5 p.m., closed Tuesdays. Yasaka Shrine: 625 Gionmachi Kitagawa, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto 605-0073. Open 24 hours, free. Tenka Ippin (Chion-in branch): 272-5 Matsubara-cho, 1F, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto 605-0063. 11 a.m.–9 p.m., until 11 p.m. Fri–Sat, closed Wednesdays. Minamiza Theater: 198 Nakanocho, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto 605-0075 (east end of Shijo Bridge). Box office 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m. Pontocho Kappa Sushi: 160 Matsumoto-cho, Pontocho, 1F, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto 604-8013. Dinner 5–11 p.m. daily. Lunch 12–3 p.m. Sun–Wed. Sushitetsu: Wisteria Court Pontocho 1F, Pontocho (just south of Sanjo-dori), Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto 604-8002. 5–10:30 p.m., plus weekend lunch 12–2 p.m. Closed Wednesdays. New Sushi Center Kiyamachi: 192-5 Shimokoriki-cho, Yasaka Kiyamachi Building, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto 604-8016. 4 p.m.–1 a.m. daily. Karaoke Rainbow Kawaramachi: 599 Uradera-cho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto 604-8041. 11 a.m.–5 a.m. daily. Shalara Craft Beer: 141-2 Komatsu-cho, Castle Seasons Gion building, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto 605-0811. Hours aren't listed online, so check before going.